
Whenever we go into a coffee shop or tea room, from the smallest independent producers to national chains there is one thing which proves to be a better litmus test than any other I know, and that is the little nugget of soft, unctuous set custard in pastry that is an egg-custard tart. This simple and incredibly tasty dish can be made so, so well or diabolically badly. And that gives me an idea of who made the food, when and with what level of artistry.
Indeed, it’s not rocket science, it is a simple process of love and care that makes the basic ingredients:- eggs, cream, vanilla, nutmeg and sugar come together to make something extraordinary.
I’ve been having issues recently with my egg-custards. In my quiches they’ve been watery with too many air bubbles in-between, making them heavy and not the creamy, silky idylls of vegetable, egg and pastry that a good quiche should be. And through tireless exploration (Tash-as-Heston again!) I’ve deduced that it is the tightly-bound egg-white proteins that are causing the problems. They simply need to be beaten to within an inch of their lives so that their molecules relax and go with the flow. Then you can make the perfect egg-custard tart and it will be perfect.
This was a recipe from a magazine I saw and instantly became friends with called Country Kitchen. It uses seasonal, local and hopefully organically grown food as its basis and makes recipes that are in-harmony with the seasons. As it’s almost easter, and chickens – if we had any – would be starting to lay around now, the magazine suggests some nice things to do with eggs. I did fiddle the amounts, quite a bit, as I’m prone to do, because I didn’t want to make one just like they had, I like to give mine a bit of individuality (I named it Fifi, too).
This is actually my first foray into egg-custard tart making, and like all things, the homemade is far superior to the bought equivalent. I might even go so far as to say I’m egg-static! (yes, I know!)
Ingredients for the sweet pastry:
- 4oz (100g) Doves-farm plain flour
- 2oz (50g) butter
- 1oz (25g) caster sugar – I used light brown soft
- a little water, enough to bring ingredients into a dough.
Method: Add flour, butter and sugar into a bowl, rub the fat into the flour until it has achieved a fine breadcrumb consistency. Add enough water to make a dough and roll out to line a 9-inch pie dish. Chill. Once chilled for 15 minutes, blind-bake at 180ºC/gs mk. 4 for 20 minutes. Leave oven on.
Ingredients for egg-custard:
- 1/2 pint (235ml) single cream
- 1/4 pint (120ml) milk
- 1 vanilla pod, cut lengthways and the seeds scooped out, keeping both pod and seeds
- 2oz (50g) Caster sugar
- 3 eggs
- freshly-grated nutmeg
Method:
In a pan add the cream, milk, vanilla seeds and pod. Keep stirring and heat until it starts to come to the boil. Remove from the heat. In a blender, blend the eggs and sugar, pulsing until the eggs no longer retain any of their springy-whites. It should all be an even-liquid. Strain the milk/cream/vanilla liquid and slowly add it to the egg mix, stirring constantly. Lest you should end up with scrambled eggs.
Add your mix to the pastry case and grate fresh nutmeg on top, plenty of it. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean from the middle.
Best served with a pot of Assam tea – however it is so yummy that you may just have to eat it straight from the dish, as I did.